Tuesday, November 29, 2016

a velvet short sleeved hoodie.


this is my newest creation. someone at sometime posted a hoodie from the 1930’s on their blog, and I loved it so of course I saved the pics and decided one day I will have a hoddie like that!
my obsession with hoodies dates back to being a small child. I had this striped hoddie that I absolutely adored. it was the hood I loved about it, always the hood. and as a child I would wear the hoodie backwards so I could see the hood I held such an adoration for. I was three, and my mom let me wear it that way. she tried to tell me the proper way to wear it, but I would have nothing to do with that so she relented and I wore it like that till I out grew it.

now that I am grown up, I no longer wear my hoddies backwards. I enjoy them properly worn with the hood in the back. actually I’m not really sure why I like hoddies so much as I very rarely put the hood up. I guess I just like the way a hood looks hanging down.

now on to the construction

here is the hoddie from 1939 that I fell in love with. one night I was looking at my stash and I thought oh my god I totally have velvet, and that silky matryoshka doll fabric would look so cute as the collar.
I dug out patterns choosing three of them to get me started. obviously I wasn’t going to have anything quite like the original. I have looked around online for collared hoddies both to buy and patterns to make. but they seem to be a fashion from the 1930’s that has gotten lost over the years.

I chose McCalls 6614 obviously for the hood. which is the only piece I used from the pattern. McCalls 5093 for the front top bust. and newlook 6675 for the sleeves and the back, which I extended . in length by I think 10”.
the bottom front I drafted on my own. and then there was the making of the collar. I had no idea how to do this. somehow I had to attach the hood to a collar but only on the lining. I realized from the pics of my inspiration that velvet part of the hood is separate from the collar, but the lining piece it was not.
getting this right was not easy. and took two tries. I thought I had it the first time. it looked like it would work but then when I had the whole thing put together I realized I was shy by like 2” in width, so the collar didn’t fold right. and that is when I just kind of threw the whole thing in the corner and left it there for days.

here's the one I had to tear apart, see how the lining is too short and the wrong side of the green fabric is showing.
after a week or so though I went ahead and tore the lining out. once I did that I made a new pattern piece this one extended by four inches just to make sure. I had thought about just piecing the missing 2” but then there would have been a weird seam that I just couldn’t wrap my brain around. I had plenty of fabric so I went ahead and cut an entirely new lining part of the hood. it then went fairly quickly. but it was turning out a bit shorter then I wanted so I added the cuff at the bottom which I drafted myself, and yea! it was finally done.